After we bid our farewells to my Guru and Mentor, Steve Laug and his brother, Jeff, Dal had left a couple of days earlier I felt a void. All of a sudden there was nothing to look forward to, no pipe talks, no planned activities, nobody to share a smoke with and above all, their mere presence was being missed by Abha, my wife and both daughters, not to mention me too! It was my youngest daughter, Pavni, who suggested that we restore a pipe!! What a suggestion that was! The one that caught our collective attention was a pick axe shaped pipe that we had come to associate with Kriswill as I have inherited a few. It was a Dr. For those readers who have missed out on my previous work, I was fortunate enough to have heeded the advice of my dear friend and mentor, Steve, and struck a deal with a junk collector from Mumbai.
Linkman, owner of M. Fullerton Ave. These three gentlemen shared common interests and became fast friends.
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During one of their evening get-togethers inLinkman mentioned he would introduce a new type of pipe soon that exhibited what he felt were fine improvements that greatly improved the pipe smoking experience.
He was still looking for a good name and believed his pipes would sell better if they bore the name of a physician. Grabow if he would permit him to use his name.
The good doctor felt flattered by the idea a pipe should be designated for him and consented. A formal agreement was not made, nor were there any contracts signed or royalties paid to Dr. Grabow for the use of his name; it was, according to one of Dr.
Paul Grabow's sons, Milford, a "friendly understanding" and Linkman expressed his thanks by sending Dr. Grabow numerous pipes throughout Dr. Grabow's lifetime.
Also interesting of note are the various instances where Dr. Paul Grabow stated that he developed, or helped develop, the Dr. Grabow brand of pipes. This was a tactic used to convince people that a pipe developed, endorsed, and used by a medical physician would be 'more healthful' than a pipe that was not developed by someone in the medical community.
Grabow passed away in at The pipes that bear his name became one of the most popular, and one of the most well-known, pipe brands in North America. An ad dating from celebrates it as "America's Most Wanted Pipes" and the text announced that each Dr.
Grabow was broken in on the Linkman's Automatic Smoking Machine with fine Edgeworth tobacco, reducing the need for the new owner to spend time breaking in his pipe. In the official name read Dr. I used my cordless drill to drill it out. It had to be slightly larger and slightly deeper than the KW stinger apparatus.
To make room for the lip on the aluminum piece I used a sharp knife to bevel the inner edge of the hole to accommodate the lip. I then removed it and used a white all purpose glue to hold it in place.
There was a removable stinger end for the tenon so I reinserted that in place and the new insert was ready. The fit of the stem against the shank was perfect. The diameter of the stem was slightly larger than the diameter of the shank so I would need to sand it to make them match. I tried to remove the Grabow insert from the old stem so that I could use it on the new stem.
I tried to pick it out with a dental pick but was not able to remove it. I filled the club hole with black superglue and then sanded it smooth. I used grit sandpaper to work on the diameter of the stem. I also sanded the end of the stem around the button to remove the tooth marks and chatter. The next series of four photos show the stem after all of the sanding and shaping.
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The new stem looked quite good with the bowl. The fit was perfect and the lines and flow of the angles was exactly what I was looking for when I started. I sanded the stem with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge and then refilled the small holes around the patched club logo with more superglue. I sanded the patch down with grit sandpaper and resanded it with the sanding sponges until it was smooth.
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The photo below shows the two stem side by side. I sanded the stems with micromesh sanding pads - wet sanding with grit pads and dry sanding withgrit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three grits of micromesh.
I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to work on the bowl. I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and carefully buffed around the stamping on the sides.
I polished the aluminum shank band with the higher grades of micromesh pads and then a polishing cloth to remove the scratches and bring up the shine. The next series of four photos show the polished bowl before I worked on it with somegrit micromesh pads.
I gave the bowl a wiped down coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain.
I wanted to give the briar a shine coat but not add much colour to the finish. It really made the grain pop on this one. Once the oil had dried I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff. I put the stem back in place and gave the bowl and stem several more coats of wax and buffed to a shine.
The finished pipe is shown below. The look and feel of the pipe is like new. It is cleaned, restemmed, refinished and ready to fire up with its inaugural bowl of tobacco. It should last a long time and serve its owner well - whether I keep it or pass it on to another pipeman. I decided to take these final photos on a piece of marble counter top to see if I could get a good contrast on the photos. When I am refurbishing pipes I take the same care on older factory made pipes as I do on the more collectible ones.
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To me this is part of the stewardship of refurbishing. It does not matter what the original price of the pipe was - it is worth redeeming and bringing back to life. The refurbishing of the next pipe is one of those. It is an older Dr. Grabow Riviera. It was given to me by a good friend in Ponoka, Alberta.
He gave it to me as a gift when I visited him recently. It is stamped Riviera over Dr. The stinger apparatus in this one is an insert into the metal tenon. It is tube with a scooped portion on top that has a hole in the bottom of the scoop. The surface area of the apparatus acts as a condenser and filter. The beauty of this design is that it can be removed.
The stem was badly oxidized and also had tooth dents on the top and bottom near the button. The finish was shot and the varnish was peeling from the bowl and shank. The rim was darkened and dirty and had a small crack on the top left side.
Gilly, the first rule of pipe smoking for me, at least, is smoke what you like, like what you smoke. Doesn't matter if it's a Dr G, or an absurdly e Dating a Grabow - Page 3 - Dr. Grabow Pipes. Dr. Grabow Pipes > The DOCTOR'S OFFICE > Contemporary Grabow / The New Millenium > Dating Help - Viscount # Moderators:JoeMan, steverino. Share. Share with: Link: Copy link. 7 posts Dating Help - Viscount #24 Dating Help - Viscount # peteguy. 3. Duke. peteguy. 3. Post Dec 12, #1 T My first post here - sorry if I am. Dr. Grabow pipes began with Louis B. Linkman († ), of the M. Linkman and Co. of Chicago in (Pat # 1 ). Linkman and Co. ceased producing the Dr. Grabow pipes around After this date the brand was owned by Henry Leonard and Thomas (HLT), Inc. of Queens, New York and produced by Sparta Pipes Inc. In , US Tobacco acquired Sparta Pipes and rights to Dr. Grabow.
The four photos below show the state of the pipe when I brought it home. I love doing research on old patents and with US made pipes it is very simple. The following website is a simple way to find data and diagrams.
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Generally, these older patents have been made into files that can be downloaded. Here is a copy of the information I found there. It is a patent for the Adjustomatic connector. I always find reading through these patent application documents gives me a feel for why the designer came up with invention.
This proved true of this application as well. After reading through the patent information I was ready to restore this old pipe. It appeared to be made somewhere around the time of the Patent as it had the patent number stamped on it. That dated it somewhere around after the patent was given. I began by reaming the bowl with the PipNet reaming set to clear up the uneven and broken cake. I decided to work on the externals first. I wiped down the bowl and shank with acetone on a cotton makeup pad to remove the finish.
There was some very nice grain poking through the mottled finish and very few tiny fills that made it even more attractive to me. The acetone removed the varnish very well and also took away the dirt and filth on the exterior. The first two photos below show the process of wiping down the bowl. The old finish is visible on the cotton pad. Once the finish was removed from the bowl as much as possible with the acetone, I sanded it down with grit sandpaper and a fine grit sanding sponge to further remove the finish.
The next series of four photos show the bowl after the acetone wash and the sanding. The grain on this one is very nice. The inner rim would need to have some attention to smooth out the rough edges and the darkening. I sanded the metal shank band as it had some deep scratches and gouges in it. I could not remove the damage but I minimized its look.
I worked on the tooth marks in the topside and the underside of the stem surface. I heated the stem with a Bic lighter - passing the flame over the tooth marks to lift them to the surface. I then sanded the stem with grit sandpaper to remove the remaining marks that were present Photos 1 - 4 below. I followed that by sanding with a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the scratches left behind by the grit sandpaper Photos 5 - 6 below.
I sanded the entire stem with the sanding sponge to remove the oxidation from the vulcanite. I took the pipe apart and cleaned the stinger apparatus with a cotton swab and alcohol. The next two photos show that design of the stinger.
It is a two part piece and the extended tube can be removed from the screw in metal tenon. I cleaned the inside of the stem and also the inside of the stinger to remove the buildup of tars and oils inside.
I sanded the bowl with - 12, grit micromesh sanding pads, being careful around the stamping on the shank. Once the scratches were removed and the bowl was smooth I restained it with a dark brown aniline stain thinned with isopropyl alcohol.
Doing this makes the stain less opaque and also several shades lighter. I wanted to highlight the grain not hide it so this was the perfect mix to do that. I applied the stain with a cotton swab, flamed it with a lighter to set the stain and then repeated the process a second time.
I'm a newbie here and a newbie to pipe smoking. My father left me his collection of pipes when he died in and I've decided to t Dating a Grabow - Dr. Grabow Pipes. Nov 12, What's in a NAME? Pipe Model (Series, Line) Names Through the Years - info as of Photos and information on prices of, and dating of, the various Dr. Grabow Pipes will be included elsewhere at a later date.
CMF made the 72,73,74,75, etc. If you want more, I can remember more. Once, I told you that there were only a few qualities of briar from the mills. Now it's time to get more spefic. There was another catagory which answers a lot of questions.
As the sawyers got into the burl and couldn't get another big piece out of the burl, they cut CM. This we bought for Lark and Duke. Talk about cheap. Briarwood costs for Lark and Duke were.
We made a fortune off Lark and Duke. Spanish mills were located Northeast of Barcelona in I believe. I've got to remember the dead. Our broker in Spain was Rocco Cuttri. He died in about Such a man. He looked a lot like you Mac. The following information about briar mainly covers the area from the s to maybe the lates, but other than the prices, probably has at least some application to the period prior to that as well as after. In other words, having a basic knowledge of this, one might be able to better understand how Linkman was doing business in Chicago - a period I have little to no information on.
The prices are for around the s and s and are used primarily to give a general idea of the cost and quality relationship. When the pipe names are given in parenthesis, it is not an all-inlcusive, nor exclusive list - they are provided for convenience and to give a general feel for what briar went into what pipe. They will be listed below. Briarwood is purchased in bags and the price is per bag. Depending on the size block a bag can have as few as 24 dozen, or as many as 72 dozen:.
Blocks stummels were turned into bowls, rough sanded and dry selected. Dry selection separated them into seven grades GRADED by the flaws - number of imperfections - in the wood from 1 to 7 actually to 8, but we'll get to that later as below:. Now, from the above grades, 1 and 2 were then "wet selected".
This used a solution of half methanol and half water remember that formula as it will come into play again when we talk about stems which "brings out" the grain. When referring to the above grades, the number for " 1" and " 2" were never used, but rather it was just A, B, C, D and H.
Probably because it was just redundant to say, "1A" or "2E". For the rest it would be just 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. Because these wouldn't have been wet selected into "grain" there's an exception or two, but we'll get to that laterso there was no other reference needed. This is important information to know because, if for nothing else, that is how this will be referred to elsewhere on this web page. If you have made it this far in reading about briar, then you will understand why I thought you might return here.
You will also understand why, in telling the story of Dr. But now, for a further challenge, especially to those who breezed through all this without the slightest bit of confusion, I am going to further "discuss" briar. I just do not think the Dr. Grabow pipe story can be told fully or properly without at least, touching on some of this.
This is such treacherous ground that we are about to cover that my friend supplying the information warned me, "When you post the information about Briar, don't use 8. We used that quality so seldom that it would just confuse the readers.
We only used it when we got desperate.
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Your call. I jest about the "treacherous ground", but will simply offer the advice that you may not want to proceed any further in reading about this topic. Before it is over though, and escially as I add new things to the web page, you may want to return here or you'll never know why things like WILLARD pipes are discussed on a web site dedicated to Dr. Grabow pipes. Okay, we have covered "A" through "H" and "3" through "7".
Generally, if the pipe is stamped as Linkman's with Dr. Grabow's signature, it features that mysterious and peculiar top propeller emblem. And generally, if the pipe features a white top spade emblem, it isn't stamped as Linkman's, and Dr. Grabow's name appears in block all capital letters. The real puzzler was when I got an Ajustomatic that had a much, much larger hole in it - I didn't know anything about the filter pipes then. LOL! One advantage now that didn't exist back then when I was doing my guessing, is NOW there is at least some information on the Internet about it and some knowledgeable people available to ask questions of. Now coming to the research of this brand and line/ model in specific, I referred to doursim.com and as expected there is an extensive research on this pipe and even has a separate page on the dating of Dr. Grabow pipes, starting from the Linkman era to later pipe lines and numbers which makes for an interesting read and is highly recommended.
They were sawed wrong in Europe. Ever get the idea that some "banded" pipes were made that way for more than simply the looks? In another area we will be talking about the WILLARD "military" and some other things and you will again see not only the importance of this discussion on briar, but also why seemingly unrelated non-Dr. Grabow pipes are discussed!
The top ends up being rough. Sparta used them by sanding the top shorter. Too narrow left or right or front to back for their selected shape.