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Dating vintage omega watches
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The Omega serial number decoder Find the date of an Omega by serial number An Omega serial number will either be laser etched in tiny digits on the case back or for older watches it may be on the inside of the case or on the movement. It will be a number (no letters) between 5 and 9 digits long. This tool can date any Omega watch from to However it is useful for narrowing down the vintage of Omega Watches (perhaps as close as +/- years). The above list may prove potentially useful for determining the approximate age of an Omega watch via cross-referencing it's serial number with the date in the table above. Founded in by Louis Brandt, Omega is one of the world's best-known and most respected watch brands. Based in Switzerland, the company produces stylish and beautiful timepieces for men and women. Whether your Omega watch is a family heirloom passed from generation to generation or a special gift from years ago, you can date it by referring.
This article was originally published on April 20, It was ated and newly published on November 14, Omega movements, from the s and s, usually have the calibre number under the balance. From the late s on, the number was located on one of the bridges, often the same one as the serial number.
Every Omega movement has a serial number. In pocket watches from the early s, you can find it on the dial side of the baseplate. In other words, you have to disassemble the watch to access it.
Nov 14, Identifying the movement. Please don't buy a vintage watch, let alone an Omega, without having a look at the movement. If you ask the seller for pictures of the movement, and you get a response like "I can't" or "I don't have the tools" or just a plain "no," it's best to skip that one.
Later on, the serial was always on one of the bridges. You can find a list of serial numbers for Omega at Chronomaddoxa useful Omega resource created by the late Chuck Maddox. Speedies have a separate list, compiled by Roman Hartmann, and you can check it here. The Ranfft movement archive entries for movements of various Omega families list differences between particular movements of a calibre family.
For example, when you see a cal. The 30T2 had a few chronometer versions, all of a higher grade than the non-chronometer versions.
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These have the suffix RG in the number. You can easily recognize the RG by its distinctive regulator.
Omega also has an extensive database of their vintage watches on their website, so if you need further information about your Omega timepiece, you can go to Omega Vintage watches information and identify your timepiece. Note that all serial numbers may not be exact by the very year, but more so help you find the approximate year of your Omega. Phone: The OMEGA team is available from 8am to 6pm EST, Monday to Friday. Call. Apr 12, The preceding post is a guide to help identify Swiss produced vintage Omega watches issued during the period that the digit reference number was used. Omega also used other reference numbering formats consisting of 4, 5 and 6 (7 with the extra zero) reference numbers, but the same methodology can be used in your research.
This is - and will always be - wrong. No exceptions. This is nothing more than a 5XX base without the automatic winding assembly.
Long time dating vintage omega watches apologise, but, opinion
Of course, the barrel is different as well. They were mostly used in the Geneve collection.
However, a few Seamaster De Ville models had it as well. Theoretically, it fits in a case intended for a 5XX.
Until the s, the only supplier of chronograph movements for Omega was Lemania. One of the best-known ones is the cal. CH27 C12, later known as the cal.
There are, however, differences between the CH27 C12 and the The is always marked as such and always has copper-colored plating. Still, they have a few problems worth noting. You need to be extremely careful with signs of issues with the rotor.
When it wears out, the rotor will start rubbing against the bridge on which it sits upper bridge for automatic deviceand against the case back. The edge on the rotor will have a noticeable loss of plating. So will the upper bridge, most likely.
The inner side of the case back will have a characteristic circular trace on it. When you see that, best skip that one. It may be that the issue has been repaired. But can you be sure? You can often spot them by an inconsistent tone of the plating throughout the various components. Of course, some parts will change color due to the different solutions they were cleaned in during a service.
Another example of frankenising is using parts from Tissot counterparts in movements, which the two brands shared. So, the parts are interchangeable. If you see something like that, skip that one.
The general rule is that Omegas have all the relevant markings on the inner side of the case back. These should include a reference or serial number, the Omega stamp in a triangular frame, and the case material. Sometimes, and that usually applies to the s and s pieces, you can also find some info about the manufacturer of the case.
For example, the two collections made for the Swedish market - the Suveran, and the Officer. These had the markings on the outside of the case back. Also, many US market models were cased locally, in cases made by American suppliers. These often had the case material marked on the outside. Notable exceptions include the Naiad and Medicus models, which did sometimes have the reference stamped on the case back.
The case serials follow the same code as the serial numbers found on movements. Omega has a record of pairing movements and cases from batches made within a considerable period.
A two-letter case material code preceded every Omega reference. This was rarely found on the case.
It was also - at times - not very consistent. For example, with 3- 4- and 5-digit reference numbers, the standard code for stainless steel was CK.
Still, there were models in stainless steel, where the code was MI. Remember that if a reference was made in a few case material versions, the base reference number will always be the same. In the late s, Omega introduced a short-lived 5-digit system, paired with the same material codes as the 4-digit system. InOmega introduced a new system of case reference numbers. By the s, it was changed again, to a 7-digit system. Still, the principle remains the same for both systems, that the first three digits define the characteristics of a watch.
A key for this can be found herealong with case material codes for 6- and 7-digit reference numbers. So, if you look at the ordinary Speedmaster reference, Keep in mind, that the OVD might require you to add a 0 after the period in a 6-digit reference to look it up.
For example, a While models with ordinary reference numbers were available in the US, Omega has made some watches for the US market only.
Only a few of these are listed in the OVD. Some cases were used for two different models. The difference between them could be a completely different dial and handset. Sometimes, though, it was the movement. Now and then, one reference could have been used with two or three different movements. Apart from one reference spanning over two or three generations of a used movement, this is also the case with pieces made for the US market.
Vintage Omega is the New Vintage Rolex
The movement in these had a different number due to a different lower jewel count. They had fewer jewels to avoid a higher import tariff in the US. One reference could have belonged to two collections at the same time for example, Seamaster and Geneveand yet the watch was also available with no collection name on the dial. A noteworthy example of a shared reference is the Seamasterwhich was also available as a Geneve.
But there, the Seamaster always had the hippocampus logo on the back. Keep in mind that a reference that was shared between different collections was a thing of the s and s. In the s, a Seamaster reference on a watch with an unmarked dial only means that the watch was available without the collection name.
Also, for a Seamaster made before ca.
That logo appeared on SM cases only from very late in For a reference introduced beforethe absence of the logo on a specimen from or is nothing strange. This only applies to watches that were made for the US and UK markets.
Steel cases were always made in Switzerland, along with the rest of the watch. However, gold-plated and gold-filled ones for the US market were made by local suppliers, like Wadsworth. A Dennison Omega case always has the following markings:. For example, the jewel count is the only difference between the an anand And so on.
You can find the details of the differences in the Ranfft archive. Every entry for movements within a particular family list the differences between the movements within that family. Keep in mind that some vintage models are faked very often, especially the Constellation.
You can find a detailed guide to authenticate Constellation cases at Omega Constellation Collectorswhich is the resource for Constellations. All of this might seem very complicated. As a challenge.
Is there any possibility the case material can be solid Gold?
Useful idea dating vintage omega watches useful question
The serial number at the back of the case is CD It also bear other tiny inscription of which i find it difficult to read. This tiny inscription is not in any of pictures here. Hi, it could be solid gold.
Many of the fake Omegas from the s to the s had impressive gold hallmarks etc. Omega never marked cases in this way.
Consider, that dating vintage omega watches are
There are also stainless cases with makers stamps that may look like an Omega, but are just a pig in lipstick. Two examples are shown below. Which one is genuine? Fake movements were not confined to manual wind calibers, some awful fake autos can be found in vintage Omegas. These days, with models like Speedmaster, Seamaster, etc, many people expect to see a model name on the dial. Unlike many of the fakes, an Omega hides its secrets inside the watch. The model or reference number is usually found either stamped or engraved on the inside of the caseback.
The caliber "engine type" is usually engraved on one of the movement bridges, or sometimes stamped on the main plate beneath the balance wheel. The serial or production number will also be engraved on the movement. Older movements, mainly pocket watch calibers may have the caliber on the main plate under the dial.
There are other ways to identify a movement, such as the shape of the plates and bridges, position of the click and screws, and shapes of the setting lever parts, but this is for more advanced research.
It does not contain all references, and may contain some discrepancies. It gives the introduction year for a given reference, not the only year it was produced. With the 3. Tip: While checking the OVDB, you can use the information to see if your movement is the correct caliber for your reference.
The serial number of the movement will give an approximate date, usually the production date of the movement. With high volume production e.